AUSTRALIA: Wine Hippies in the Basket Range
A long time
ago in a wine region far, far away, wine was made by simply fermenting grapes.
Many people probably think this is still how it’s done today, but unfortunately
in most cases, no. Today winemakers have a cocktail of additives at their
disposal to create a comfortable recipe that in my opinion completely dissolves
the concept of terroir. There are people out there who still believe in the
timeless art of winemaking, which is now fashionably known as “Natural Wine”,
and in Australia there is a place nestled in the hills where you will find
them.
Basket
Range is a small, tight knit community within the Adelaide Hills in South
Australia. Late last year when Jean and I attended Rootstock Wine Show in
Sydney we had to chance to chat with some of the small batch winemakers from
Basket Range and taste their wines. It was love at first sip, and we decided we
would visit Basket Range on our Australia Adventure.
As we drove
from the coastal city of Adelaide east into the hills the landscape transformed
into dense pine forest, small windy dirt roads, and fields of stone fruit and
grapes. Our first stop was Gentle Folk, a small winery run by Gareth and Rainbo
Belton, a talented couple who bring it back to basics. Within 5 minutes we were
tasting barrel samples and chatting with Gareth about his winemaking
philosophy, and an hour later we were sitting down for lunch at his kitchen
table with 10 bottles of open wine and a big bowl of fresh pasta. We were in
our element. During lunch Gareth mentioned they still had tons of work to do in
the vineyard before vintage, so I asked if we could stick around his place for
a couple days and help out. He immediately said yes and offered to tour us
around the local area and introduce us to his friends, who also happen to be
rock star natural winemakers, and get in on some tastings.
In just 4
days Jean and I felt like we were now a part of the community. We would start
the day in the vineyard helping clean up the canopy, and restoring the shape of
the vines then move our way into a leisurely lunch back at the house with the
record player on and wine on the table. Generally the afternoon was pretty
relaxed because of the intense South Australia sun, so we mostly went around
and met the brains behind wine labels such as: Commune of Buttons, Lucy Margaux, Ochota Barrels, Jauma, and Manon. These winemakers are
extremely talented each in their own way and we were so surprised to see that
all of the great wines are actually made in sheds. We basically had a personal
tour of the mysterious “Wine Sheds of Adelaide Hills”. I should also mention we
were able to meet the pioneers of biodynamic winemaking in New Zealand, James and Annie Milton from
Milton Vineyard. It was serious 4 days of biodynamic wine nirvana, and we are
so grateful for the experience.
Here is a
list of our favourites from the Basket Range in Adelaide Hills, I hope you can
all someday appreciate and enjoy at least a couple of these bottles…even though
they are quite difficult to find.
2015 Gentle
Folk Scary Gully Pinot Noir
This is a
juicy little gem. One of my favourites right away, it is so exemplar of
terroir. Coming from a single vineyard plot nestled on the hills, through the
glass it will have hints of toasted oak one sip, and sour cherries the next. A
natural wine for any and every Pinot lover. As expected it is already sold out.
2015 Lucy Margaux Noir de Florette
After sitting down at the kitchen table to help cut and glue wine labels we realized this was unlike any other tasting experience we've had. You could say Anton Von Klopper, the man behind the label, is a tab bit crazy... but his wines are pretty unique and approached in his signature style of 'winemaking alfresco'. This light bodied Pinot Noir was fun and unpretentious... lots of sour red berry fruit on the palate and lots of fun to drink!!!
2015 Manon, Love Lies Bleedings, Pinot Noir
This is a beautifully crafted wine. It holds the true finesse of a medium bodied Pinot, and makes you want more after every sip. Tim Weber and Monique Milton are the couple behind the label and they are doing some really rad things in the Adelaide Hills like growing and establishing Biodynamic fruit /veggie gardens and foraging for wild fruit. Tim mentioned they intend to make wine from grapes which they forage from abandoned vineyards..I one day hope to try!
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